Build Your Own Hydraulic Forging Press By Jim Batson If searching for a ebook Build Your Own Hydraulic Forging Press in pdf form, then you've come to the loyal website.We present complete edition of this ebook in ePub, txt, DjVu, PDF, doc forms. 30 or more documents about build your own hydraulic forging press found by HostGeni document library. Feb 04, 2008 Hi guys I need some specs for a hydraulic forging press 35-40 tons, H frame. Can somebody help me with a 'shoping list' form Nothern Tools or so: what do I need. Also some plans for the frame would be good. I got that book (not have it yet): How to build your own. But that one is for a C frame. What would be thew ideal Press how much force? Nov 22, 2012 Hi guys and I'm sure a few Lady's, I am at the very BEGINNING, of the process, of building a Hydraulic Forging Press. As with most everyone money is tight, because of that, and the realization that I do enjoy and get satisfaction out of building my own equipment, I decided to build my own Hydraulic Forging Press. This book and drawings are designed to help you build your own 24 ton Hydraulic Forging Press. A two horsepower 220 volt single phase motor running at 1725 RPM powers a 5.5 gallon per minute 'Hi-Lo' hydraulic pump. Ram force of 24 tons is applied by a 5' diameter double acting hydraulic.
Here are some images of building a hydraulic press as well as a list of the parts I used. Hydraulic Press Plans PDF. Are you looking for a Shop Press, Bearing Press, or maybe a sheet metal punch or sheet metal bender? Look no further we have the plans for a Hydraulic Shop Press that will handle all 3 and also replace your arbor press. Our Hydraulic shop press plans are just that, a Shop Press, Metal Punch, and Metal Brake. Best torrent app.
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Where I can I've listed the most important info and at the end of the post are links to helpful sites and info if you choose to build your own.
Materials used for the frame and ram:
(2) 6' 3'x4'x1/4' walled tubing for sides
(1) 20' 3'x4'x1/4' walled tubing for top
(1) 12' 3'x4' x1/4' walled tubing for bottom/die base
(3) 1'x4'x12' steel plate
(1) 1/2'x4'x12' steel plate
(2) 1/2'x8'x12' steel plate
(4) 1/2'x3'x 1 1/2' steel plate (gussets)
(4) 2'x2'x1/4' x15' angle iron
(2) 2'x2'x1/4' x32' angle ( for legs)
(1) 1 1/4' sq. x 14 guage x 20' tubing.
Hydraulics used:
11 gpm/3 gpm 2 stage pump
5' bore x 8' stroke (double acting) 3000 psi cyclinder*
0-3000psi liqued filled guage
10 gallon tank
5/8 lovejoy coupling (for motor)
1/2 lovejoy coupling (for pump)
spider gear for lovejoy couplings
20 gpm return line filter
large suction strainer ( for tank)
5hp motor
20 gpm open center non-dentent control valve*
(3) 1/2' x 1/2' nptm x48' 3500 psi hose*
(3) 3/4' x3/4' nptm hose barb*
(2) 1/2' male to female swivels*
(2) 1/2'x1/2' male to female right angle swivels*
(2) SAE 10 x 1/2' 90deg swivels*
(1) 1/2'x1/2'x1/2' tee*
(1) 1/2' npt hex nipple*
(1) 1/2' x 1/2' nptm 90 deg elbow
Parts marked with * all came from Surplus Centerand should be adjusted to work with your setup. Other hydraulic parts were purchased from Northern Tools.
I dont have any pics of cutting or laying out the ram guides ( lost em on accident ) but it's pretty basic stuff.
The clevis/pin holes for the cylinder are layed out on center of the 1' plate for the top of the press and for the ram.
It is worth noting that the height of the holes need s to be adjusted to match the clevis's on the cyclinder you use don't trust the manufactures specs. I did that and had to drill a new plate .
In this pic you can see a mock up of the frame. Nothing special to note here except that that height of the frame can be adjusted to match the user. At this point the frame will stand 6' 3' tall with the distance between the ram and the bottom die base being 10'. This allows for the use of 1' tall dies with 1/4' base plates to give you 7 1/2' inches of max working space.
The bottom die base is constructed from a piece of 3'x4'x12' tubing and has a 1/2'x3'x4' steel plate welded to the face of it.
The top of the frame ,made from the 3'x4'x20' tubing, will overhang the the frame at the top by 1' on both sides. This allows for a solid heavy weld where the sides meet it and in my opion just looks better.
This shot gives you a close up of the ram and how it's constructed. The side supports are made of the 1/2' x 4'x8' plate and the gussets are 1/2' x 1 1/2' x 3' plate. The gussets should be set so that they will not interfer with the cyclinder clevis once welded in place.
When building the ram it is important to note that the center peice of 1' plate must be cut at least 1 1/8' shorter than base. This will allow you to weld the side supports in and have at least 1/16' clearance from the frame. The bottom of the support should be cut back at least 1/8' to 1/4' shorter than the inside of the frame for clearnace.
Once you have all the parts cut and test fitted it's time to weld em up. I dont have any pics of this but hey lets face it welding is well . welding. On a side note tho welding 1' plate is a nasty job and realy needs to be done with a heavy duty welder. I would suggest putting some serious edge bevels (3/8' by 45deg at least) on all the 1' plate and smaller bevels on all the 1/4' tubing and 1/2' plate. This should allow for maximum penetration with your welds. I'm no pro welder and this is just how I did mine.
You really dont want your welds to fail with the amount of pressure this thing can put out.
Once it's all welded and an welds around theram that need grinding are done it's time to paint.
In the pic you just see it painted but I spent the time to rough sand the surface rust off and heavily prime the whole thing.
The frame and ram are done and it's time to mount the hydraulics. The basics for the hydraulic circuit can be seen in this link circuit diagram. In the above images you can see how the control valve is mounted and how the lines run to it.
There is really nothing to doing this part however a couple of points to keep in mind are:
(1) All the lines from the ouput side of the pump to the valve including the lines to the cylinder are high pressure lines. These lines require the upmost attention to have both hoses and fittings rated for and above the max system pressure.
(2) All lines from the tank to pump and controll valve to tank are low pressure lines. The low pressure side of the circuit is the ONLY part of the system that you can get away with using black pipe fittings such as seen in image 2.
This is not the best shot but you can see here how the 2'x2'x1/4' x15' angle iron is bolted on to the ram. I used only 1/4'x20 bolts (these were used everywhere) to attach em
to the ram. I drilled and tapped 4 holes ,2 per gusset on the top guide and 4 evenly spaced on the bottom, per guide.
Here you can see how the pump and motor are mounted. The bracket holding the pump was made from a leftover piece of 3'x4' tubing with a leftover piece of angle welded in the bottom so I could attach it to the tank stand. The motor simply bolts in place.
The stand was made from 1 1/4' sq. 14 guage steel and is seperate from the rest of the press. It simply sits in place on the back of the press legs.
Overall building a press is really very easy to do. There's not much to these things and the hydraulics are very simple to figure out. As with any poject most of us do I can look back and realize there are places where I could have done things different ( and did add in this post).
I'm certain there are some things I missed when posting this and if anyone has a question(s) then feel free to post them or pm with them.
Oh and you folks please don't hold spelling or grammer mistakes against me
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Surplus Center great place to buy hydraulics.
Northern Tools -hydraulics another good place to get hydraulics
Build Your Own Hydraulic Press
Prince maufacturing hydraulic cyclinder specs.Prince manufacturing control valve details and circuit schematic
Indian Georges press building pics
Indian Georges press parts list (same one I used)